Here is my first update on the road, issued from Gaborone, Botswana. After Easter weekend away it was all packing and organising last minute emigration things. That meant no time for riding, but I figured that probably wasn't a bad thing as I would be seeing plenty, if not too much, of Tina in the coming weeks anyway. There was also some tour admin to take care of, and inbetween selling the cars and packing, I went for a bike fit, got a last minute service and some more spares, and changed some Rand into Dollars. I also had a mean looking haircut to deter ruffians, and a shave so that I can grow a 'tour beard'. After a long time planning, and a fair few training rides, suddenly the departure date was ominously close. I was nervous but also keen to finally get underway and see how things went. I just felt a little underprepared what with everything else going on: after dropping Chloe at the airport for her flight home, I was off out to dinner, and then up until 11 getting stuff ready. Anyway, Friday morning came around, and the plan was to ride the first bit with a cycling buddy called Francois, leaving at about 6am. The plan was to sleep at Kgaswane Nature Reserve, just outside Rustenberg. That was about 130km to the gate, then another 8km to the campsite. Francois cycled to mine, and we were underway, in the dark, and about 6:15am. The Garmin was being particularly annoying that morning, as is its wont. I certainly shan't become a Garmin ambassador at this rate, unless the sign on bonus is significant. It wouldn't load the routes and generally pissed me off. But luckily the first part was the standard route to the Cradle. It was a bit surreal doing the same old ride I've done many times, but knowing I was continuing all the way to Nairobi. The ride went well, and one of the hills I was kind of dreading - Hekpoort - we were zooming down without really having done much climbing. Absolute bonus for me, not so for Francois who would have to do it on his return home. Not long after that came the first overtake of the tour - a backhoe digger! It was probably doing about 45kph, but I smashed him anyway, the sucker. No photo unfortunately, but you can take my word for it. Just after Hekpoort we stopped at a service station for some food and farewell. We were about 60km in so time for Francois to turn back. A couple of guys came over to ask what I was up to, etc etc. Cue the usual expressions of doubt, insanity, caution and good luck. Then it was just Tina & I, with a lot of miles left. Strava then started misbehaving and tried to take me on gravel roads. Knowing that there was quite a lot of dirt either side of the border, I decided to reroute and take the R24 instead. This was tar, sometimes dualcarriageway, and sometimes not. Fairly busy with traffic, but a decent shoulder to ride on, and not many trucks. Made pretty decent time from about 9:30, so decided to stop at Von Dam Brauhaus at Olifants-something. Very pleasant spot, and after a rather frosty stare from the receptionist as I wheeled Tina into the lobby, I was pleased to be introduced to a pleasant sunny terrace overlooking the dam. Seeing as I was in a brewery, I figured a beer was a must (and reasoned only another 30km or so to go) so I ordered a shandy and perused the menu. Food looked good and I ordered a scotch egg and a ham and emmental baguette. By this time I had taken off my jesus sandals and got out the solar panel to charge iphone and garmin, and a small crowd was beginning to gather. The table next door were very nice, and we engaged in a lengthy conversation, taking in the steepness of the hill awaiting me at the entrance to Kgaswane, how mental I was, and the importance of sunscreen reapplication at lunchtime (not necessary with Reimann P20 I informed them). One of the guys wanted to pay for my beer, and the barstaff were informed accordingly. But then disaster - a fresh beer arrived before I had finished the first. Not the ideal mountain ascent prep, but because I'm a bloody lad I just necked the first one and then tucked into the second. Cue round of applause from the onlookers. I took a fairly leisurely lunch, and then got a bit lost on the way to the reserve (I had since given up on strava, but then google maps started mugging me off too). The workers on the roundabout I circled about 4 times found it rather amusing. I was back on track and then I came to the aforementioned hill. I must say it was really rather horrible. It was about 100m ascent and max gradient of about 13%. It was also very straight so you could see exactly what was coming. It was the first time I'd used the lowest gear possible, and I still probably would have stopped if I thought I would be able to get going again. Pushing certainly wasn't an option on day 1. Goddam beers! I thought to myself. Anyway, I got to Kgaswane and the gate lady tried to mug me off by more than quadrupling the camping fee because it was a long weekend. She also told me that I shouldn't come here but rather go somewhere else as cyclists have been mugged and had bikes stolen. Sales 101! Obviously I knew better (and more to the point no alternatives for the night), so I paid the normal camping fee and set off into the park. The park was actually lovely, and after ascending another horrible looking hill, came onto plains where I saw zebra, eland & hartebeest. I then set up camp away from the screaming children I could hear and started yearning for another beer. However, I then decided that I was a bit isolated, and prime bike thievery was a risk, so I moved next to a group of 2 couples from Joburg. After exchanging some pleasantries, Jonathan, Devon, Michelle & Tam then took me in for the night. After getting their braai going for them (haha) we had some beers and had a lovely supper. My pre-prepped korma and naan would be saved for another day. I underestimated the temperature on the first night, and was rather cold. And the laziest nightwatchman alive decided that it was best to drive around the campsite with full beams on every hour, thus ensuring a bad night's sleep. I was up and away by about 8:30. The garmin was being shit again, but I found a boerie roll stand nearby so chowed two of those while the technology sorted itself out. Strava took me a ridiculously conservative route out of Rustenberg, which really annoyed me, and then tried to make me do 2 junctions of the motorway, which annoyed me even more! Luckily navigation was straightforward after that - past Sun City, up the side of Pilansberg, and then aim for Madikwe. I pulled in at a safari lodge gate for a water bottle refill, and chanced upon both a store & a lovely gate keeper named Lucky. He said he would put me in the book he was going to write, and took pictures of me. Seeing as I could barely understand the guy, I wasn't sure the book would be up to much, but I got him a coke (which he squirelled away somewhere) whilst I enjoyed a Stoney and custard-flavoured magnum (better than it sounds). That equated to lunch, and by then I had about 75km done, so I was on the road again at about 1. It was a pretty uneventful ride, apart from some useless bint that gave me a taste of her wing mirror. Just a nibble, but enough to prompt a barrage of abuse from me. I carried on none-the-worse, but she pulled over, probably to recover from the foul-mouthed tongue-lashing she'd just received. Aside from one other truck that boomed past so close the draft almost stripped me of my t-shirt, everyone was pleasant, and at 86km the tar petered out into dirt. It was a pretty decent gravel road and I was still able to trundle along at about 20kph. I got my solar array out again, and began to turn my mind to accommodation for the night. I knew there was not going to be anywhere official to camp, so was either going to rough it, or bed down in a village along the way. I was probably happier with the former, but game fences either side of the road made this a bit tricky. I asked a couple of locals for advice, and after plenty of handshakes and photos, was informed there was a hotel further on. This was good news, and I got there about 4:30. I wasn't sure whether it was abandoned or not, but either way, I couldn't gain entry. There was a farm drive opposite, so I thought I might as well try my luck down there. I happened upon a group of about 5 Afrikaaners who informed me that there was indeed a campsite on the farm, but it was a family one, not commercial. Paul was my lead consult, who informed me that they would have to check if I was allowed for the night as it was a Terblanche family gathering, that I had not been invited to. So we walked into the campsite, with me wondering whether I could hide the Union Jack on the mudguard before anyone noticed, and was promptly introduced to a good 15/20 people in one go. I must say they were all super lovely, and it wasn't long before a cold beer was pressed into my hand and I was given a spot to pitch my tent. Such was their hospitality that I was soon sat around the (massive) fire, being fed braaipie and potbrod until I could burst. And then being fed some more. I was also given a spot in the chalet due to the cold. But this backfired when a combination of overheating and (mostly) spectacular snoring, drove me back to my tent. The next morning I was packed up, and after 4xweetbix, on my way by 9am. I must say that everyone was really lovely, and couldn't believe I'd been so lucky two nights on the bounce. The Korma remained festering in my front pannier, and it was a real pleasure to experience the legendary Boer hospitality. I calculated about 80km remaining until the border and given that I had been advised that the road condition deteriorated further along, I thought I would be riding hard and aiming to camp at the border, before making my way to Gaborone on Monday. The road did indeed become pretty shit, and there were more than a few wistful glances at my wingmirror, willing a bakkie to burst into view and give me a lift. All I encountered was a Fortuner and a broken down police van. However, by 11am I was at what appeared to be the border. Bonus! A quick couple of phonecalls to Sarah to check if I could stay an extra night, and Hamish for a routecheck, I went through the border and was on my way again by about 12:30. The border was dead quiet, and after two incredulous border guards basically calling me liars after not providing a car registration number, I was through. A pretty boring stamp by all accounts, but free entry, which I wasn't expecting. It was tar for about 10km, and then back onto the gravel for about 30km. I had arranged to cycle from the border to Gabs with Hamish on Monday, but after a few changes to the plan, he picked me up with his bakkie en route. Bit of a bonus, as only rode 66km, and a free lift into Gaborone. We then went to a braai for a few beers, and to meet some Botswana high society (for which I felt woefully underdressed). Monday has been a rest day (although probably haven't really earned it) where I have charged my gadgets, given Tina a wash, and swapped the chain over. Bots will be about 1000km of flat tar, so looking forward to seeing what I can accomplish in those conditions. There is a rumour of a headwind, but let's hope that's not true. The first 450km or so to Francistown are pretty dull from what I've been told, so I'll aim to zoom through that. Then further north it gets wild and more remote. I have a local sim now, but unsure what coverage is like. Thus far, Bots is pretty similar to SA - malls with Woolies, PnP etc, and lots of white bakkies.
2 Comments
Francois
1/5/2017 08:02:27 pm
What a great start to the trip. Told you the Boere are great! That must be the best pic, might go down as the best of the trip eventually. Keep up with the great updates.
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Tig
4/5/2017 10:25:20 pm
Great blogging Sam keep up the posts as I am really enjoying keeping up to date. Good pics too and seems fellow travellers are mighty helpful
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AuthorSam Brook - A mildly Africanised Pom about to cycle from Joburg to Nairobi. Archives
August 2017
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